CARE RECOMMENDATIONS 

1: PROVIDE AN ONGOING PROTECTED AND CLEAN-LIVING ENVIRONMENT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Please review and communicate with household:

  • Shelter from the elements wind, sun and rain (thunderstorms)

  • Protection from hazards:

       -medications, Asprin, Ibuprofen etc..

       -electrical wires (chew through)

       -snakes

       -foods like chewing gum, onions, chocolates

       -possible suffocation from open chip packets and running vacuum cleaner hoses

  • Warm or cool clean environment with pee pads (washable), clean grass as well as good hygiene, are basic to a quality life

  • Make a point of checking the fence line for any digging out escape attempts.

TOILET TRAINING

When your puppy wakes up or finishes eating take them outside on the lawn or on the puppy pads to go toilet.  It may mean 10-15 minutes outside before they go. Your Shiba will be toilet trained, look and listen for the cues and use the command let’s go/come on and key words like “pee-pee”.

 

Accidents are likely to happen, be calm, consistent and patient.  DO NOT punish or yell at your puppy if they have an accident- no rubbing their nose in anything!  No sitting in a corner or smacks. Instead you need to consider why it happened and how you can get your puppy outside beforehand next time.

Shiba’s are clean and fastidious with access and prompting they learn quickly.

UNATTENDED PUPPY/ADULT SHIBA

If you must leave your puppy for awhile it is best to secure them in a large roomy crate with water, toys and a juicy fresh raw bone to chew on.  This will keep them occupied and help avoid puppy going toilet in the house or getting into any trouble in your absence.

 

TRAVELLING WITH YOUR SHIBA

As much as we all love to see a cute and happy face poking out from a car window and lapping up the breeze and sun, we ask you to use a car restraint when travelling with your pet.  We feel there are three critical safety benefits of using pet restraints:

  1. Window safety - your pet will not be tempted to jump from a window, nor will he/she be at risk of falling out of an open window as a result of sudden directional changes or braking

  2. Driver distraction - there's less chance of the driver being distracted or injured if a pet is unable to move around the vehicle

  3. Collision protection - if you suddenly brake or have a sudden impact there is less chance of your dog becoming a projectile.

When in a vehicle make sure dogs or other animals are suitably restrained so they cannot distract you while you are driving or injure you, or themselves, if you stop quickly.

Below are some widely available restraint options we suggest, although you should take into consideration the type of car you drive and the size and shape of your dog:

Harness - Swivel style attachment systems which anchor to the existing seatbelt and attach to a dog harness. To be effective, it is essential for the harness to be correctly fitted and for the anchor to be secure

Pet transport crates - For complete safety, crates must be secured to your vehicle and be big enough for a pet to stand up, lie down and turn around as per RSPCA guidelines

Cargo barriers - Ideal for station wagons and four-wheel drives. They can be purchased to suit your make and model of vehicle or you can purchase adjustable barriers which are easily installed and removed. If your cargo area is large, consider the use of a harness as well.

The NRMA reports "If you're driving 60km per hour with an unrestrained 20kg dog in your car and it gets thrown onto you, the impact is the same as if it had hit you from a third-floor balcony".

 

It is illegal to put dogs in the boot of a sedan type car. Dogs can travel in the cabin of the car or behind a cargo barrier in the back of wagon / SUV type vehicles. If on the back of a ute or trailer they must be appropriately tethered or caged. When travelling, dogs must be provided with adequate ventilation and water.

2: ALWAYS KEEP FRESH WATER AVAILABLE

Tick as communicated with household and completed:

  • Maintaining optimal hydration is important for health and energy

  • Make sure that you give your dog clean, fresh water EVERYDAY.

  • Water should be replenished several times a day with fresh water.

“if you won’t drink water from your dog’s water bowl…then neither should your dog!”

 

3: FEEDING YOUR SHIBA INU PUPPY

Puppies should be fed 3 to 4 times a day

  • ¾ a cup of puppy food twice a day and you should consider spacing it out by feeding ½ cup three times a day.

Smaller meals are easier to digest for the puppy and energy levels don’t peak and fall so much with frequent meals.

FEED A QUALITY DIET AND PREVENT OBESITY Follow the dietary recommendations and nutritional needs of your Shiba, based on size, age and level of activity.  Remember to provide healthy low in fat treats as rewards and avoid table scraps that may have onion or have unwanted fats.

 

 

Recommended dry food we use Ivory coat all puppy breeds

It is recommended that the puppy food is Holistic and a premium brand.

It does matter and will make a difference in your puppies’ development and appearance.  Read labels to avoid wheat and corn.

 

Supplements that are recommended for strong immune system and keeping their coat and skin shiny and healthy

  • Fish oil capsule or Coconut oil in their food daily-a little bit

  • Sardines and/or Tuna

 

Sample feeding guideline:

Breakfast any of the following combinations:

  • Little dry food with sardines

  • Dry food with yoghurt and a sprinkle of cheese

  • Raw ground beef mixed with a dessert spoon of natural yoghurt

 

Lunch any of the following combinations:

  • Fresh RAW chicken wing

  • Fresh RAW meaty bone

  • Fresh RAW Chicken necks

 

 

Evening any of the following combinations

Another RAW chicken wing, neck or part of a carcass (cut the fat off) you can:

  • add little cooked rice or barley

  • raw egg yolk

  • mashed pumpkin, potato, mixed vegetable NO ONION

  • fresh diced or grated carrot, apples or peas NO GRAPES or RAISINS

 

When your puppy starts teething, they may go off their food a little as their gums will be sore. Soft foods like tins of Sardines and grated cheese should perk up their appetite.

 

Sometimes a change in food is good if they get sick of the one, they are eating; should you wish to change their food you will need to do this gradually as it can upset their stomach.  Dogs may seem to have an iron gut, but their digestive tracts can be quite sensitive.

 

Changing dog food should be done gradually over at least a 2-week period. Puppies are usually the most susceptible to stomach upset when a dog food switch is made.  The reason is because puppies already have rather sensitive stomachs because they're still developing. When a puppy comes home to her new family, they go through many, many changes all at once.

Usually one of the first things new puppy parents do is switch dog food. Along with all the other changes and stress (new people, missing Mummy and siblings, new environment), a new puppy food tends to really upset their tummy's.

 

So, regardless of whether you’re dealing with a puppy or an adult, a dog food switch should be done gradually over time. There are also a few things you can add to your dog's diet to help the transition to a new food.

 

How to switch your dog's food

Switching your dog's food gradually is not difficult. It's just a matter of adding the new dry food to the old dry food a little at a time.  This is a sample ratio:

  • For every 1 cup of food you normally feed your dog, reduce that to 3/4

  • Add 1/4 of the new food into the old food

  • Continue this ratio for 2 to 3 days

  • Over the next week or so, increase the ratio to 1/2 & 1/2 of each type of dog food

  • After a week and 1/2 to 2 weeks, you should be able to switch completely over to the new food.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's a good idea to try to time your dog food switch with just the right amount of old food left in the bag. If you can measure it out (approximately) using the ratio's and time frame above, you hopefully won't waste any food, or switch your dog over too quickly.

 

Problems when switching dog food

No matter how gradually you switch your dog's food over, sometimes they still get stomach upset. The most common problem when switching food is loose stool, and sometimes diarrhea.

To harden your dog's stool back up; there are two things you can do and one or the other may work better for your dog.

  • Cook up some plain rice, (actually, over cook it until it's very mooshy), and even brown up some plain hamburger and mix the two together. Give this mixture with a little dry food mixed in with it for a day or two until your dog’s stool starts to harden back up, then gradually over a couple of meals feed more dry food than rice and hamburger mixture

  • Another option for stool hardening is adding some pumpkin to your dog’s food. It's the same principal as the rice & hamburger mixture. Just add a generous amount to each meal and as your dog's stool starts to harden, back the pumpkin off over a few meals.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BELOW ARE BEST SOURCES OF FIBER FOR DOGS:

  • Apples

  • Peaches

  • Carrots

  • Avocados

  • Pumpkin

  • Tomatoes

  • Green vegetables

  • Beet pulp

  • Sweet potatoes

Top recommended fiber-rich foods are green beans, sweet potatoes and pumpkin.

 

TOP 12 CAUSES OF DIARRHEA

Many things can disrupt this well-balanced system, causing diarrhea or, less frequently, constipation. Some things, like eating too much grass, are not serious at all. Others can be a sign of a life-threatening problem, such as an indigestible object (like a rock) lodged in the stomach, or a disease like cancer.

 

  1. Dietary indiscretion: Eating too much, eating garbage, or spoiled food. There’s actually a name for it in veterinary circles—“garbage toxicosis” or “garbage gut.”

  2. Change in diet: It may take a few days for a dog’s digestive system to adapt to new proteins. That’s why many dog-food manufacturers recommend that you go slow when you switch from one brand of food to another.

  3. Food intolerance

  4. Allergies

  5. Parasites: Most of these will cause illness in puppies or in adults with weak immune systems:

  • Roundworms

  • Hookworms

  • Whipworms

  • Coccidia

  • Giardia

6. Poisonous substances or plants

7. Swallowing an indigestible foreign body, like a toy or a dozen or more socks

8. Infections with common viruses such as:

  • Parvovirus

  • Distemper

  • Coronavirus

9.  Bacterial infections, such as salmonella

10. Illnesses, such as kidney and liver disease, colitis, inflammatory bowel disease, and cancer

11. Antibiotics and other medications

12. Stress or emotional upset.

HOW TO HELP A DOG WITH DIARRHEA

Rice water: Boil high-quality rice in a lot of water, remove the grains, and offer the dog the creamy white soup that’s left. A splash of broth or a bit baby food will make it more palatable.

White rice

Pumpkin

Yogurt, which has beneficial bacteria, can help in dogs who can tolerate milk and milk products.

Boiled potatoes, without skin

Plain protein sources such as egg (prepared with no butter or oil) or chicken (without skin)

Specially formulated dog foods: Some manufacturers offer foods that can sooth stomach problems. You may need to obtain these from your vet.

Over-the-counter medications for humans may also be effective for doggie diarrhea but should be given with caution and you should talk to your vet before using them.

National Geographic has confirmed that the Shiba is genetically closest to the wolf followed "suggesting they are the oldest domesticated breeds".  The research conveys that the "Shiba Inu breed did not have as much genetic tinkering and stayed relatively true to how nature intended".  *REMEMBER “WOLF”.  FOOD AGGRESSION IS REAL-NEVER ASSUME THAT YOU CAN FEED YOUR SHIBA AND ANOTHER PET TOGETHER -

WE RECOMMEND FEEDING SEPARATELY!

4: VETERINARIAN “VET” VISITS

Your Shibee will be due to have their next booster vaccination done around 4 weeks after adoption and another vaccination 4 week’s after this.

This vaccination should be the C5 Protech C3 & kennel cough (Bordetella).  Some Vaccinations do differ based on geography and area requirements.

You will be provided with a Puppy Vaccination record to provide to your Vet.  From there you will be provided the information on vaccination schedules, de-worming and external parasite control.

* REMEMBER Watch for signs of lethargy after each treatment

as your Shiba may be sensitive to some of these treatments. 

If that is the case, discuss this with your Vet and take note of which drug.

Next time you will source a different active ingredient.

DISCUSS REPRODUCTIVE CONTROL. If you do not intend to create puppies, spaying or neutering is a certain option.

If you plan to breed your dog or are opposed to spaying and neutering for other reasons, take appropriate measures to prevent mis-matings.

If you do not already have a Vet that you are comfortable with, find one that you are.  You need to work as a team with your Vet and have no second thoughts about contacting your Vet if you believe that your pet may be ill, injured, or if something just doesn’t seem right.

Keep a copy of your pet’s vaccination records and take them with you when you travel. If for any reason you need to board your Shiba they will require a copy of an up to date Vaccination record.

We do suggest taking out a level of Pet Health Insurance. We will provide you with 6 weeks free insurance, if you would like to continue with the health insurance already in place for your puppy let us know and we will bridge this across to you.

*REMEMBER The free insurance expires after the 6-week period, so make sure that you ask any questions or continue cover within this 6-week time period.

Otherwise, you can make your own arrangements with the Pet Health provider of your choice.

Make sure your Puppy/Adult Shiba gets the regular exercise needed.  If leaving home with your Shibee, you must have a correctly fit collar, harness and lead-MUST.

A 10- or 20-minute walk around the neighbourhood is better than no walk. Shibee’s like any dog love fresh air, a sniff and see what’s going on outside.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO NEVER let your Puppy/Adult Shiba wander off the leash in any public area. The Shiba run fast and are not good at recall.  They are a hunting breed and will chase anything they see moving- this is most likely to end tragically in traffic. 

Remember dogs can’t sweat, keep walks to first thing in the morning or evening during hotter months.  Take water and NEVER leave your Shibee in the Car or any place that is not well ventilated.

 

Remember that dog parks carry germs and bacteria.  They are hosts to parasites such as Fleas, Roundworms, Hookworms, Giardia and diseases such as Parvovirus, Leptospirosis, Distemper, Influenza and Kennel Cough etc… Highly recommended that you do not walk your puppy through this environment or even a pet shop unless vaccinated. 

 

Even after vaccination we want to alert you to off the lead dog parks and fights are more common than what you think.  The fights can and do end in death, you don’t know these dogs or their owners; so please be picky with your Shibee.  Most dogs in parks are rude and pushy with some very irresponsible owners.  The risk of a fight is uncomfortably high as some unruly dogs play too far with a dog that doesn’t have the same play style. Your Shibee may want to be left alone, may be protective of you and may start to react aggressively to any dog for fear of being bullied.  Also, remember that your Shibee’s butt is a sensitive personal area, it is OK if they do not want another dog with teeth sniffing around there, even if it to just say “hi”. That does not mean your Shib is not social, it means they are not comfortable and that is fair enough.

REMEMBER It does not mean your Shiba is an aggressive dog, don’t be shammed into staying and persevering. Read the signs, know your risks and find another option, there are plenty-walk, fetch (back yard) do some research.  Your dog does not have to meet every dog to be social, they need quality stable dogs over quantity.

Lastly, your Shiba may look like they are having a blast and may be the other dogs around them are not, invest time in learning canine body language so that your dog also is not being a bully.  Spend time with your Shiba, you do not need to rely on other dogs to exercise your Shiba.

7. COMMUNICATE WITH YOUR SHIBA

Talk with your Shiba, dogs are social creatures and they need to interact with their owner.  Quality time will help you get to know your dog and understand needs that it might have and if any behaviour is unusual.

Shiba Inus are double-coated dogs and shed heavily twice a year, typically during the spring and autumn.

During this time, your Shiba will shed or “blow” it’s undercoat in a period lasting for a few weeks. This shedding is completely manageable.  Be sure to be gentle when grooming your Shiba, as most Shiba’s do not tolerate even the tiniest bit of pain – like the accidental pulling of hair that should not have been pulled.

It would be a good idea to give your Shiba Inu a bath or blow out during the shedding season, as all the extra fur can contain more of your Shiba Inu’s dead skin cell and debris.

Brushing Your Shiba Inu’s Coat

Shiba Inu’s should be brushed weekly. There are a variety of brushes available for dogs including:

Shiba Inu’s should be brushed weekly. There are a variety of brushes available for dogs including:

If you don’t brush them regularly, nothing harmful will happen to their coat as they will just shed it off naturally. But you will just see a lot of fur all around the place until shedding stops. Nothing that a good strong vacuum couldn’t handle.

 

BATHING YOUR SHIBA INU

To make bath time less stressful for your Shiba Inu it is important to accustom the dog to water and handling at an early age. Make sure to introduce your Shiba Inu puppy to bathing in a happy and positive manner.

  • The coat of a Shiba Inu is resilient to water and dirt

  • They don’t have to be given baths too often

  • Some Shiba Inu’s have skin allergies that can flare up with excessive bathing

  • You shouldn’t bathe your Shiba Inu more than twice a month

  • If your Shiba Inu is an indoor dog, you can wait even longer between baths.

For quick clean-ups, you can use a dampened cloth or spray shampoo to wipe down your Shiba when necessary.

DENTAL CARE IS VERY IMPORTANT

Feed raw chicken and bones to avoid gum disease, which can have serious implications.  Infection resulting from this condition leads to premature tooth loss, and can commonly cause infections in major organs, including the heart valves.

 

 

DON’T OVERLOOK GROOMING AND NAIL TRIMMING

If you are not confident in trimming your Shibee nails, then see a professional groomer or your Vet.  Overgrown nails can make it more difficult for them to walk. In addition, such nails are much more prone to breaking, which can be quite painful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In any emergency contact your Vet in the first instance.

 

If you have any questions about your Puppy/Adult Shiba please either contact me via anyone of these means and I will get back to you as soon as possible.

 

Anne Pavlovic

shibalia@bigpond.com

Phone: 0456 17 55 55

HOW TO HELP A CONSTIPATED DOG

Some pet owners experience success by feeding a dog with constipation ONE of the following foods:

  • Canned pumpkin: To help your dog with constipation, you can try feeding them pumpkin, which is high in fiber and water content. You can use either fresh pureed pumpkin or canned pumpkin, but be sure to avoid purees and pie fillings with added sugar, as these often contain a compound that is toxic to dogs

  • Milk: Like humans, many dogs are lactose intolerant. However, a small bowl of milk can act as a laxative for canines in a crisis. Consult your vet before giving your dog milk to help with constipation

  • Olive or coconut oil: a natural fruit, vegetable, or mineral oil can help lubricate stool for dogs suffering with constipation

  • Cooked green beans are rich in fiber, helping to clean the colon and stimulate bowel movements. This small and tasty vegetable doubles as a unique treat for dogs with constipation

  • Ginger and broth: Many humans turn to ginger to help with indigestion, and this remedy can have equally helpful effects for dogs with constipation. Prepare a half-cup of chicken or beef broth with a 1⁄4 teaspoon of ginger to help a constipated dog.

5. PET HEALTH INSURANCE

6. PROVIDE AMPLE OPPORTUNITIES TO EXERCISE

Wide eye look- staring into each other’s eyes. Your Shibee is connecting, they want your attention.  A treat or loving scratch will do

Wagging the tail- happy gesture, when you are doing something with your Shib..talking playing catch.  If the tail is lowered and wags slowly, they are intently watching you for a sign to do something. It all comes down to what you want

Showing the teeth- When any dog shows their teeth, in a mildly aggressive way, it wants you to back off.  Dogs get protective of their favourite toy or their food. Showing teeth without snarling is a warning

Paw signal- When your Shiba raises their paw, they want something- often a treat or more rubs

Showing the belly- a happy Shib that trusts you will lye on its back and give you the cue for cuddles and love. A gentle good belly rub and your Shibee will relax peacefully.

TRAIN YOUR DOG TO FOLLOW THE SIMPLE COMMANDS. Puppy and dog training classes can be very helpful.  Dog obedience classes are a good environment to start with and they have the benefit of strengthen your bond with your puppy at the same time.

8. GROOMING

Rake brush-removes loose undercoat hair easily

Slicker brushes have rows of bent wire pins that detangles and lifts loose hair and undercoat.  It can be difficult to remove the hair that is trapped in the tiny wire bristles of the brush.  There are slicker brushes with a self-cleaning hair removal feature.

2 in 1 comb used to gently check over your dog’s coat.

Shedding blades should only be used by professionals as it can cause damage to your Shiba Inu’s fur and skin. NEVER Shave your Shiba’s plush coat, it is their first defence against the heat, the cold as well as bacteria and dirt.

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